Last Updated on 7 February, 2024
It may be the 21st century as you stroll through the souks and residential areas but, in many ways, it could be any century from the past millennium… You have to squeeze into doorways so that you’re not mown down by heavily laden donkeys or mules, or wiry old porters with an impossible load. You pass ancient workshops, you hear constant rhythmic tapping sounds as coppersmiths make kettles and cooking pots, you see wrinkled cobblers sew bright yellow leather from Fes’ famous tanneries into men’s babouches.
As you wander in a daze through crooked alleyways that look like one another, with just glimpses of sunlight and smoke billowing up from stoves, you lose the perspective of time. The Medina of Fes is raw and enchanting and leaves you completely disoriented and thrown out of your comfort zone.
Read More: The Ultimate 2 Week Morocco Itinerary
Getting There
By plane – an international Fes Sains airport is located 15km from the city centre and it’s served by Air Arabia Maroc, Ryanair, Vueling, TAP Air, and Royal Air Maroc airlines. If none of the airlines flies from where you are, you will need to fly to Casablanca and from there take a 1h 10min flight to Fes. To find your flights check Skyscanner.
By bus – thanks to the wide CTM bus network in Morocco, there are lots of buses going to Fes from different cities. To find the most up-to-date timetable, check CTM website.
When you arrive at the bus station in Fes, you’ll have to take a taxi if you’re staying in the Medina. I happened to get chatting with an Italian girl whilst on the bus from Chefchaouen and found out she was staying in the Medina too so we shared a taxi.
By train – the Fes train station in Ville Novelle is about 4km southwest of the Medina. There’s an ATM, some phone shops for SIM cards, a couple of snack shops and cafรฉs with WiFi. You can take a petit taxi to and from the station (just make sure the meter is on), or check with your accommodation who might be able to arrange a transfer you. Check ONCF website to find out if there are trains to your chosen city and the timetable.
Read More: My Experience Travelling by Overnight Train in Morocco
Where To Stay
Dar Anne (budget) โ this cute and charming dar is located just 6min walk from the Blue Gate, has a terrace with panoramic views of the Medina and offers continental breakfast.
Apartment Lala Rkia (budget) โ located just a 2min walk away from the hustle and bustle of the main street of Fes (Talaa Kbira), this apartment is perfect for a group of people for an excellent price. Itโs beautifully decorated and looks very cosy!
La Grand Alcazar (mid-range) โ this guest house is absolutely beautiful, with stunning Moroccan decor throughout and is very rich in ornaments and traditional decorations. It has very spacious rooms and a rooftop terrace which offers breathtaking 360-degree views of the entire Medina of Fes.
Riad Fes โ Relais & Chรขteaux (luxury) โ Fes is full of hidden gems behind its thick Medina walls, and this riad is, no doubt, one of them!
Things To Do
Take a half-day tour in the Medina
This inexpensive 3 hours long tour is very informative and exciting. Medina of ย Fes is the largest car-free zone in the world and finding your way back after getting lost is not the same as itโs in the other Medinas in Morocco. I highly recommend booking it, not only they will know where to go and wonโt get lost, but they will also tell you a lot of history about Fes and its Medina and will show you the best places for delicious bread, fruit, tea & coffee, leather and silk shops.
Explore the souks
Even though the first thing I recommend is booking a walking tour, I still encourage you to be curious and see what it’s all about and explore it at your own pace either before taking the tour or after. In both scenarios, it can be an interesting experience.ย If you stay in the Medina, it will be right at your doorstep. Please note that on Fridays the souks can be closed as itโs a holy day for Muslims. Beware of random people especially kids trying to show you the way as they will be asking you for money. If you do get lost, ask a street vendor for guidance.
Check-out the Blue Gate (Bab Bou Jeloud)
Since youโll be entering/exiting through this gate, so you might as well take a moment and admire it. The Blue Gate, built in 1913, is the main western entrance to Fes el Bali (the Medina). The other side of the gate is green โ the colour of Islam.
Admire Al Quaraouiyine University/Mosque
Founded as a mosque in 859, it subsequently became one of the leading spiritual and educational centres. It is now the oldest continuously operating and degree-granting university in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The university still doubles as a mosque and therefore non-Muslim visitors are not allowed inside, but you can peek through the main to see how beautiful it is!
Visit Chouara Tannery
One of the most popular places to visit in Fes, Chouara Tannery is the oldest tannery in the world! It still operates and you can go to the balcony of one of the leather shops to watch men prepare and dye leather. The smell of the dyeing process can get rather unpleasant due to the use of urine and animal faeces, so be prepared to have a scarf to cover your nose or shop owners might give you a sprig of mint to rub under it. Those leather shops are also great for shopping as you can find pretty much anything there.
Visit Bou Inania Madrasa
Located in the centre of the Medina, Bou Inania Madrasa was a theological college built in the 14th century.ย Beyond the massive brass entrance doors, its interior courtyard is a masterpiece of elaborate zellige tilework, carved plaster and beautiful cedar lattice screens.ย Continuing the colour theme is the adjoining mosque, with its breathtaking green minaret that is visible across the Medina.ย
Check out Dar al-Makhzen (Palais Royal)
Itโs the royal palace of the king of Morocco in Fes which you can look at from outside as youโre not permitted to go inside. It has beautiful big golden doors with guards nearby, and youโre allowed to take pictures.
Visit Jardin Jnan Sbil
Take a walk in this peaceful and relaxing park before you head back to the bustling Medina. It has a variety of trees and plants such as cacti, bamboos. I found it beautiful and interesting.
Visit Borj Nord
About 30min walk from the Medina, itโs a fortress built by Sultan Ahmed Al Mansour in the 16th century, but now itโs a Museum of Arms. I didnโt find it particularly interesting unless youโre into that kind of history, but the views from the fort were stunning, so itโs definitely worth visiting if not for the museum then for the views.
Visit Marinid Tombs
Marinid Tombs are a set of ruined monumental tombs on a hill above and north of Fes Medina. They were originally a royal necropolis for the Marinid dynasty which ruled over Morocco in the 13th to 15th centuries. Today, they are a popular lookout point over the historic city. If you’re visiting Borj Nord, the tombs are not a long walk away from it.
Get pampered in the spa at Riad Fes โ Relais & Chateaux
While I didnโt stay in this riad, it was right next to my accommodation, so I went there for a facial. The whole experience was very professional, relaxing, and the facial left my skin looking glowing.
Where To Eat
Chez Rachid (breakfast, lunch, dinner) โ conveniently located to the Blue Gate, this popular restaurant serves traditional Moroccan dishes for excellent value for money. Itโs a great place for people-watching, as you are sat in one of the two main streets of Fes.
โ Rue Talaa Sghira
โ Daily 10am-10pm
The Ruined Garden (lunch, dinner) โ located in the ruins of a courtyard house in the Medina, this restaurant serves tapas at lunch, street food, also cakes and pastries, and fresh juice
โ 15 Derb Idrissy Sidi Ahmed Chaoui
โ Daily 1pm-9.30pm
Cafe Clock (breakfast, lunch, dinner) โ first opened in Fes and named after centuries-old water clock, it has now cafes in Marrakech and Chefhaouen. Itโs famous for a camel burger which I didnโt dare to try, but maybe youโll be more adventurous than me? If not, go for their couscous bouhaloo with roast chicken or lamb tagine which were delicious!
โ 7 Derb el Magana Talaa Kbira
โ Daily 9am-11pm
Nagham Cafe (breakfast, lunch, dinner)โ located next to the Blue Gate (Bab Bou Jeloud), there you’ll find a variety of delicious food, including tagines paired with beautiful views from the terrace. The customer service is friendly and professional.
โ 49, Place Iscesco Kasbat Boujloud, Derby Mernissi
โ Sun-Fri: 10am-11pm; Sat: 12pm-11pm
Fez Cafeย at Le Jardin des Biehn (lunch, dinner)ย โย a charming Moroccan bistro with beautiful decor and a tranquil garden. I stumbled upon it during the day, but they werenโt serving food. I came back for dinner and really enjoyed it –ย the food was lovely, the waiters were friendly, and they have wine!
โ 13 Akbat Sbaa Douh, Medina Le jardins des biehn
โ Daily 13pm-3pm; 7.30pm-10.30pm
Grab snacks in the souks – the Medina of Fes is huge and exploring it can take you some time! If you start feeling peckish, there are lots of delicious snacks you can find such as different varieties of bread, dried fruit (dates in particular), and ย nuts.ย
Abdullah Thรฉ & Cafรฉ (tea/coffee) – tucked away in the Medina, this charming and welcoming cafรฉ serves delicious Moroccan coffee and tea. It’s a perfect place to take a break from exploring the souks and relax.
โ Rue Machatine
How To Get Around
The best way to get around Fes, if you’re staying in the Medina, is to walk! The Medina is a car-free zone anyway, but even if you’re visiting places such as Royal Palace, Jardin Jnan Sbil, Bjorn Nord or Marinid Tombs I would recommend walking as it’s the best way to see more of Fes. However, if you’re short of time or not a keen walker, get a petit taxi but make sure the meter is on or agree on the price beforehand!
When To Go
The best time to visit Fes is between March and May and between September and October when the weather is warm (around 30โ), but not too hot. Months to avoid are July and August when the temperature rises and it becomes unbearably hot (around 40โ). In winter, the days are cooler but still nice and sunny (the temperature varies between 10-20โ) and it gets quite chilly at night. I was there in early January and got to wear a t-shirt for a bit during the day!
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